Because I’ve always wanted to…

Dear All – we trust this finds you all summer well,

When one thinks of Brazil, I am sure that after Rio, the Amazon and maybe Iguaçu Falls, its famous beaches are foremost in one’s mind — and deservedly so.

Some of Brazil’s finest coastline, combined with characterful villages and exquisite accommodation, can be found on the stretch of coast between Corumbau and Trancoso, to include Praia do Espelho and Caraíva, with Trancoso being the most famous destination.

In contrast, on the north coast of Brazil, east of São Luís, close to where the Amazon emerges into the Atlantic, lies the area known as Lençóis Maranhenses, made famous by its lagoon-filled dunes and world-class kite-surfing conditions.

This 4WD overland journey along the top of Brazil is aptly named the Rota das Emoções — the Route of Emotions. It is one of the iconic overland coastal trips in Brazil, joining Jericoacoara and Atins via Barra Grande. A true adventure in all senses of the word.

Finally, on my eternal quest to find the most unique beaches in Brazil, I travelled to Santarém on the Amazon and by land to Alter do Chão. This charming, laid-back Amazon village is actually on the Tapajós River, a tributary of the Amazon. Here I boarded the Kaiara boat Tupiaú, for a four-day trip around the area, sampling many fine beaches along the way.

 

With all our best wishes,
Nick and the laterallife team – Helen, Maza and Jessica

From the beaches of Bahia in Brazil to the dunes Lençóis Maranhenses and the amazon beaches of the Tapajos river aboard the Kaiara vessel Tupiaú.

Ponta do Corumbau – Fazenda São Francisco

The hotel is in the south of Bahia, in a truly remote area with pristine beaches, turquoise sea, but very little else. Fazenda São Francisco is truly a place to forget about everything. It is a small, isolated, ten-room villa hotel, set on the beachfront by the Corumbau River, 50 kilometres from the nearest surfaced road and around 120 miles south of Porto Seguro.

Caraíva – Vila do Mar

Caraíva — this charming, classic Brazilian beach and riverside village is what I am told Trancoso used to be 20 years ago. There are no cars or motorbikes — just horse-drawn carts along sandy streets. There are delightful beach bars and restaurants, boutique-style accommodation and a slightly hip feel to the place. Hotel Vila do Mar has recently come onto the scene and is definitely a hotel worth staying at for three to four nights, as I did in March. Caraíva is not for everyone, but it is probably a good place to go on a second trip to this area.

Caraíva – river life and village colour

The appeal here is less about polish and more about atmosphere: sandy lanes, boats on the river, colour, music and a very particular sense of place.

UXUA – Trancoso

To me, the only hotel to stay at in Trancoso is UXUA, and our favourite room is the one with the pink door, called Seu Pedrinho, leading onto the famous hilltop Quadrado. The Quadrado is a grassy, tranquil colonial town square overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. All of UXUA’s casas date back hundreds of years to the village’s founding and have been beautifully restored using traditional techniques and reclaimed materials. Adding to the enchantment is a rustic beach bar for the exclusive use of UXUA guests.

Trancoso – the Quadrado and beach life

At night, as darkness descends, the lights of the bars, restaurants and boutique shops come alive, adding to what is already a very special Quadrado atmosphere. Few visitors leave Trancoso, as the roads can be challenging, so day boat trips to Espelho and Caraíva are the best way forward.

Lençóis Maranhenses – Santo Amaro

OIÁ Casa Lençóis — three hours by car from São Luís brings you to this charming eight-bedroom villa property on the edge of the national park, which is the gateway to the largest, most easily accessed and most beautiful dunes and lagoons in the Lençóis Maranhenses. I was lucky enough to spend three nights here at this sublime residence, with phenomenal views of lagoons and dunes just ten minutes away by vehicle, not to mention the occasional swim within one.

UOIÁ Casa Lençóis

The hospitality at Casa OIÁ was faultless and, to me, this is the number one residence to stay at should you want to visit this national park. You can leave Casa OIÁ on foot on a two- or three-day trek to Atins, or by 4WD right across the national park. I chose the latter, and what an adventure.

Atins – Pousada Muita Paz

Atins is a sleepy village on the south side of Lençóis Maranhenses National Park, with one side on the sea and the other on the Preguiças River. It is famed for its proximity to the water-filled lagoons and superb kite-surfing conditions from July onwards. You can arrive in Atins by 4WD from Santo Amaro, by boat from Barreirinhas, or overland from Jericoacoara via Camocim, Barra Grande, Parnaíba and Tutóia — this is the typical Route of Emotions. There are many places to stay in Atins, but my favourite, due to its proximity to the lagoon / river, is Muita Paz.

Atins – dunes, lagoons and adventure

The experience is intentionally simple and elemental: dunes, water, wind, 4WDs, quad bikes and huge skies.

Atins to Barra Grande

Atins to “Jeri” is really the core of the Emotions Route and can be done in either direction by 4WD. Highlights would include visiting the scarlet ibis on the Parnaíba Delta and quad biking along the dunes to Barra Grande.

Pousada BGK is the place to stay in Barra Grande and is the perfect refuge for those who want a quiet environment with a foot-in-the-sand feel. There are superb sunsets, great kite surfing and it is a two-minute walk to the street life and restaurants in the village.

OIÁ Casa Daia

Moving east from Barra Grande, you first reach OIÁ Casa Daia. This hotel was not fully completed when I stayed there, but it is truly a special place. If the action in Jericoacoara is not your scene, I would come and stay at OIÁ Casa Daia.

Baía das Caraúbas and Camocim

Heading east from here towards Jericoacoara, one could stay at Baía das Caraúbas, or even Casa de São José in Camocim, but most continue to Jeri.

Jericoacoara – Chili Beach

This whole area was made famous by the village of Jeri. It is where most Route of Emotions trips start, as international flights either come into Fortaleza or the new local Jeri airport from São Paulo. Chili Beach is our go-to hotel, with stunning views of the coast and a relatively quieter position at night, as well as a superb restaurant. There are many great lake trips nearby with floating bars and restaurants, Lagoa Azul being one of the very popular options.

Chili Beach – views, atmosphere and detail

For clients wanting Jeri itself, the strength of Chili Beach is that it gives access to the village while still feeling a little removed from the busiest action.

Preá, Rancho do Peixe, Casa Siara and Carmel Taíba

Heading east from Jeri, the first accommodation option is Rancho do Peixe, a 2/3-star beach accommodation that is really for kite-surfing aficionados. On to Preá, the most affordable option here is one of the seven lovely villas at Casa Siará, or to stay at the hotel on the beachfront. The top accommodation is Casana Hotel, but this comes with a very high price tag. The last stop before you reach Fortaleza and your flight home is Carmel Taíba, which is where the “downwind” kite-surfing adventures begin their journey from here to Jericoacoara. This is a stunningly situated hotel with all the amenities that you could wish for on this extraordinary stretch of coastline.

Up Periscope

Vila de Alter, Pousada Boutique Amazônia, Alter Do Chao– Tapajps river – Kaiara Belle Amazon / Tupiau

A flight from Belém, which is a city formed at the junction of the Amazon and the Atlantic, to Santarém, and then by road to Alter do Chão, is where you will find Vila de Alter. Alter do Chão is a quiet, laid-back village around the square, with a few restaurants and bars — about all you will find here. Inside the village are the freshwater beaches of Alter do Chão, and it is off the sandy spit where the three-boat Kaiara fleet is anchored. A four-day cruise around the area was just magical.