Because I’ve always wanted to…

Winter Greetings,

It’s that time of year again when the temperature drops and we can’t help thinking about hotter climes. Egypt remains a favourite destination some winter sun, along with history and culture in spade loads, and below you’ll see some of the highlights of my most recent wonderful trip there – click here to see it in detail. Exciting news that the brand new Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) has finally opened. GEM is the largest archaeological museum in the world and includes the Tutankhamun Gallery which holds the full collection relating to King Tut – more below.

In Up Periscope we feature the wondrous, newly opened Shakti Prana in the Indian Himalayas, along with a glowing testimonial from a recently returned traveller. Enjoy!

This year has seen a surprising number of our adventurers on the road enjoying well-deserved holidays and sabbaticals. If you’re starting to think about visiting some new places next year, or the year after, we’d be delighted to meet you to discuss and help you to plan – please feel free to get in touch for some (no obligation) inspiration to get you started.

With all our best wishes,
Nick and the laterallife team – Helen, Maza and Jessica

The St Regis, Cairo, Egypt

Cairo is an enormous, crazy capital city bustling with people and cars, cars, cars. It also has the Nile, one of the longest and most fascinating rivers in the world, flowing through its centre plus many of the jewels in the crown of Egyptian antiquities. The new Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) was still to open during my visit, and now it has! The state-of-the-art glass and concrete display space cost an estimated US$1 billion to build and is located on the Giza plateau overlooking the famous Old Kingdom pyramids. The dazzling galleries have enough original and restored works to keep you browsing for the better part of a day, so it is necessary to be highly selective. Standing out amongst the vast quantity of superb statuary; countless coffins; fine jewellery; household goods; and mummified animals on display; is the Tutankhamun Gallery which displays 5,400 items from the boy king’s tomb including his incredible gold mask, sarcophagus, jewels, and chariot. Unlike in the old museum which simply displayed the treasures, here entire narratives have been developed in the designs of many of the galleries to demonstrate Tut’s lifestyle, including what and when he ate, and what he might have been wearing.

I would make a special trip to Egypt just to see GEM, but why not stretch your trip to a week or even 10 days and enjoy even more of what Egypt has to offer? More below!

Cairo is an enormous, crazy capital city bustling with people and cars, cars, cars. It also has the Nile, one of the longest and most fascinating rivers in the world, flowing through its centre plus many of the jewels in the crown of Egyptian antiquities. The new Grand Egyptian Museum (GEM) was still to open during my visit, and now it has! The state-of-the-art glass and concrete display space cost an estimated US$1 billion to build and is located on the Giza plateau overlooking the famous Old Kingdom pyramids. The dazzling galleries have enough original and restored works to keep you browsing for the better part of a day, so it is necessary to be highly selective. Standing out amongst the vast quantity of superb statuary; countless coffins; fine jewellery; household goods; and mummified animals on display; is the Tutankhamun Gallery which displays 5,400 items from the boy king’s tomb including his incredible gold mask, sarcophagus, jewels, and chariot. Unlike in the old museum which simply displayed the treasures, here entire narratives have been developed in the designs of many of the galleries to demonstrate Tut’s lifestyle, including what and when he ate, and what he might have been wearing.

I would make a special trip to Egypt just to see GEM, but why not stretch your trip to a week or even 10 days and enjoy even more of what Egypt has to offer? More below!

The Lazib Inn, El Fayoum

Leaving behind the madness of Cairo we drove west past the pyramids of Giza then south and across the desert to the oasis of El Fayoum, a journey of around two and a half hours. The last part of the journey follows the shore of Lake Qaroun, a long and vast stretch of water, eventually reaching Tunis Village in which is situated the wonderful Lazib Inn. This is a very comfortable small boutique hotel with just 17 rooms right in the centre of Tunis village. Its gardens are lush, green and gorgeous and it features not one but two pools, one just for grown-ups. Enjoy dinner the Blue Donkey restaurant looking out over the oasis to Lake Qaroun. What to do here other than enjoy the convivial surroundings? The main thing to do is to go on a desert safari! El Fayoum has a number of small but important archaeological sites, including some pyramid remains and the remnants of once vast Ptolemaic cities that were major centres of crocodile worship. It’s also the base for adventures out to Wadi Rayan’s desert lakes and to Wadi Al Hitan, the Valley of the Whales, where enormous prehistoric whale skeletons emerge from sandy rock outcrops. A local Bedouin driver, Yunis, took us for an exhilarating off road trek through the desert to see these amazingly well preserved examples of the 30 metre long 35 million year old whale skeletons on which can be seen vestigial legs from the time when whales were land animals. Truly remarkable!

Sofitel Legend Old Cataract Hotel, Aswan

The most iconic hotel in Aswan – take a short flight from Cairo to get there – with the best views over the magnificent River Nile has to be the Sofitel Legend Old Cataract Hotel. Looking out over the Nile, you can see Nubian villages nestled in the desert and many motor and sailing boats plying their trade along the river. There’s lots to see in Aswan itself, including the superbly preserved Ptolemaic and Roman temples on Philae Island. The temples were moved stone by stone from their original location which now lies beneath the waters of Lake Nasser following the creation of the second Aswan Dam in the 1960s.

From Aswan, take a day trip on a plane to see one of the most impressive of all the Egyptian antiquities sites, Abu Simbel. Like Philae, the two enormous temples were moved lock, stock and barrel from the rising waters created by the dam. Highly recommended is a relaxing cruise on a felucca, the ancient wooden sailcraft seen the length of the Nile.

From Aswan, take a slow, private cruise up the Nile to the temple of Kom Ombo on the Obelisk, gazing out at life on the banks of the Nile as you drift slowly along, enjoying cold drinks up on the deck and a tasty lunch below deck prepared by your own onboard chef. Alight at Kom Ombo for look around, then drive onwards to Edfu temple, and finally to Luxor.

Al Moudira/Hilton, Luxor

Luxor is a vibrant city which blends ancient history in abundance with modern life, where the ancient sites are surrounded by bustling markets, riverside promenades, and a lively nightlife scene. At dusk, the city comes alive, with locals and tourists gathering along the Nile Corniche for strolls and dining whilst looking out over stunning river views. Experience this energy by taking a felucca ride at sunset, exploring traditional markets, enjoying local food, or watching live music and dance performances. Luxor is famously called the “world’s greatest open-air museum” for its profusion of ancient temples and tombs like Karnak and the Valley of the Kings. For an unforgettable experience, take a hot air balloon ride at sunrise for a breathtaking view of the ancient sites from above. I’d recommend staying either on the West Bank of the Nile, closer to the Valley of the Kings, at the wonderful Relais & Chateaux Al Moudira, or at the Hilton Luxor Resort & Spa, which sits right on the East Bank in the city.

The Oberoi Beach Resort, Sahl Hasheesh

Finish your Egyptian escape with some pool and beach time, and maybe some diving, down on the Red Sea. Egypt’s Red Sea coast has a fine reputation for its crystal-clear waters and unspoilt underwater landscapes. This is home to a kaleidoscope of vibrant marine life and pristine coral reefs. Both beginners and experienced divers can explore the waters here. The best place to stay here is The Oberoi Beach Resort, Sahl Hasheesh. It is set along a vast stretch of prime beachfront and has luxurious suites, many with uninterrupted ocean views. I enjoyed spending hours relaxing in and around the huge infinity pool, and loved the food, especially the Egyptian breakfasts. If you don’t want to spend all your time in the bar or beach there are plenty of activities on offer, including boat cruises, camel riding, desert safaris, quadbike rides and, of course, scuba diving.

Up Periscope

Shakti Prana Lodge, Himalayas, India

Imagine waking up to this view in the morning! Shakti Himalaya offers simply amazingexperience taking one on a journey through the Indian Himalayas, by road and on foot, staying at their breathtakingly beautiful village houses. Shakti Prana is their newest and some recent travellers who stayed there considered it one of the finest experiences of their whole trip through India. This is Pippa’s testimonial:

“Our journey up to the Kumaon valley with Shakti was without a shadow of a doubt the highlight of our trip. Everything about it is sublime – incredible views and scenery, wonderful rooms, deliciousfood and great guides throughout. The jewel in the crown of the three wonderful village houses inwhich we stayed was the brand new Prana, where we spent 3 nights. The rooms were incredibly comfortable and each one had an awe inspiring view of Nanda Devi, the second highest mountain in India. The walks that we went on during the day were tailored to our wish to walk for 4 or 5 hours but I think they could have been longer or shorter if we had wished. We walked through villages and meadows perched on the top of the foothills with stunning views of the Himalayas in the distance. But what makes the whole experience so special is that everything has been done so thoughtfully – a fire lit in our bedroom every night, hot water bottles provided without being asked for and the fire pit lit so that we could enjoy the beautifully clear night skies. The whole place exudes a peaceful and relaxing atmosphere where care and nourishment for body and mind is the emphasis. To that end, the food is delicious and the staff could not have been more solicitous and delightful. We are dreaming of our next visit!” Perched at 7000 feet above sea level, bordering Tibet and Nepal, with a glorious view of Nanda Devi (India’s second tallest mountain) range, Prana is truly remote. Think quiet luxury at its best. The seven-suite, solar powered Prana Lodge will offer a remarkable stay in an architectural marvel of stone, glass, timber, and copper. With one two-bedroom suite and five one-bedroom suites, plus two dining areas and live kitchens. Prana (meaning ‘Breath’ in Sanskrit) features breathtaking views of Nanda Devi from every vantage point. An outdoor yoga pavilion, and sauna enhance wellbeing at any time. There are fabulous walks and hikes to choose from. You will discuss with your private guide the level & duration of walking you would like to do and accordingly the route will be planned.