Because I’ve always wanted to…

Greetings,

Recently, I undertook what I consider to be one of the greatest and most scenic road journeys on this planet with my good friends, Rupert and Claire Howell.

After a few days in Buenos Aires at Palacio Duhau, enjoying all the delights of this very civilised city, I flew alone to Córdoba to stay on a classic family-owned working ranch – Estancia Los Potreros.

Then onto Salta, where I was joined by my friends, and so began the first leg of our trans-Andean adventure, escorted by Gaston, our amazing guide, in his 4WD to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile.

Next up was an equally dramatic road adventure back over another sector of the Andes to the Bolivian border and onto the Salar de Uyuni, famous for its endless kilometres of mesmerising salt flats and enormous cacti. Staying in an Airstream camper on the salt flats was an off-the-scale experience!

Enough of bumpy roads! A flight from Uyuni to La Paz had us landing at one of the highest runways in the world, then down to the city centre by a series of cable cars, which give a phenomenal 360-degree view of this literally breathtaking city.

Our last country leg was Peru. After a few experiences in some of Lima’s well-renowned restaurants, we first headed south to Pisco land and a scenic flight over the Nazca Lines.

All good trips, in my view, have to involve some beach time, so we headed north almost to the Ecuadorian border to alight in Mancora and spend four relaxing days at the aptly named Kichic Boutique Hotel.

This journey would certainly be in my top three road trips I have ever had the privilege to enjoy, made all the more enjoyable by the plethora of superb vineyards that one comes across as you drive through places such as Cafayate, Molinos, Taquil, Colomé, and Cachi!

If there was ever a must-do trip, this is it!

Although our trip was just over five weeks, the journey can easily, and just as rewardingly, be split into two or three adventures.

With all our best wishes,

Laterally yours, Nick, Helen, Jess and Maza

Palacio Duhau

This hotel is nestled in the heart of Recoleta, blending aristocratic elegance with modern design. Its 165 rooms and suites are split between broad gardens, with three restaurants, a sumptuous indoor pool, fitness centre, and an Alin Wellness and Spa.

Within walking distance of the hotel, we discovered some fabulous restaurants, with the Fervor Grill being our standout favourite.

I have visited a lot of hotels in Buenos Aires, and there are some charming boutique hotels in the Palermo district, but if you want to splash out, it’s hard to improve on this hotel.

Argentina, land of the gaucho, mate tea, wide open spaces, the finest beef, and some of the world’s best wines, where horses are used for work and transport, and where cattle roam free, could not be more applicable.

The Begg family have really created a taste of authentic estancia life but with sufficient modern-day luxuries to make one’s stay very agreeable.

One evening, we had a fascinating wine tasting competition pre-dinner, and another evening, all the guests were summoned to the kitchen to make their own empanadas, with the chef looking on to assist and advise where necessary.

Most of the guests were keen to ride or try their hand, but with that activity being a firm no-go for me, there was still such an air of relaxation and friendly warmth to the estancia that I found this stay an ideal way to prepare for the robust and varied trip ahead of me.

Kevin, the owner, along with his GM, were the perfect hosts. A friendlier bunch of staff you could not possibly wish for in an establishment like this one – unique in my book and a big tick!

House of Jasmines

This was our first hotel stop, just 15 minutes outside Salta city centre. At the end of a driveway, this century-old estancia, situated at the foot of the Andes, is the perfect start to one’s Salta adventure. It has only 14 rooms and suites, a lovely heated outdoor pool with views of the Andes, along with a wellness area, spa, and gym.

There are numerous on-site activities, including, of course, horse riding, yoga, and cooking workshops.

The Relais & Châteaux restaurant needs no introduction.

Salta town itself is well worth a morning wandering around the old Spanish colonial buildings, but the highlight for us was the Museo de Arqueología de Alta Montaña, or MAAM as it’s fondly known, which is one of Northern Argentina’s premier museums. It has a serious and informative exhibition focusing on Inca culture and, in particular, the child sacrifices left on some of the Andes’ most imposing peaks. The centrepiece is the mummified body of one of the three children (rotated every six months) discovered at the peak of Llullaillaco in 1999.

Quebradas De Cafayate

The 190 km road trip from Salta to Cafayate will be your first experience of the scenic marvel that will unfold before your eyes over the coming weeks.

This route is known as the spectacular Quebrada de Cafayate, a wild landscape of multihued sandstone and unearthly rock formations. Carved out by the Río de las Conchas, the canyon’s twisted sedimentary strata exhibit a stunning array of tones, from rich red ochre to ethereal green.

While you get a visual feast from the road itself, it’s well worth taking the time to explore some of the canyon on foot.

Just north of Cafayate is an extensive dune complex that gives way to the canyon proper. A series of distinctive landforms are signposted from the road – the Devil’s Throat and Amphitheatre being the most impressive.

We had an enjoyable lunch at Amalaya before heading to our next stop – Patios de Cafayate.

Patios De Cafayate

Attached to the El Esteco winery, this estancia, originally founded in 1892, serves as both a hotel and a working vineyard. Its rooms are very spacious and comfortable, decorated in a classic colonial style. Views from the patio bar look over the good-sized pool and onto the estate vineyards and distant mountain ranges.

This is the perfect authentic accommodation to kick-start your upcoming road adventure.

The in-house restaurant is excellent, but on your second evening, head down to the main square in Cafayate for a glass of delicious local Torrontés and then dinner at Pasha.

Valles Calchaquíes

One of Argentina’s most stunning rural areas is a combination of rugged landscapes, traditional weavers’ workshops, striking adobe villages, and top vineyards. Angastaco, Molinos, and eventually Cachi are all small villages well worth driving through and/or stopping for a visit.

Leaving Cafayate, you travel on the mostly unpaved but spectacular RN 40 road, snaking through the valley of Calchaquíes before peeling off the main road down what can only be called a track until you reach the charming estancia/winery at sleepy Taquil.

Here, we were treated to a BBQ meat fest and some utterly delicious high-altitude-grown wine in a setting that I will never forget.

Next stop from Taquil was Estancia Colomé.

Estancia Tacuil

Picture of BBQ outside.

Estancia Colomé

Beautifully set amidst lavender gardens and vineyards, with spacious rooms all with private balconies to contemplate the local scenery. Hidden in a nook of the Calchaquí valleys, Estancia Colomé is home to the oldest winery in the country.

Hiking, horse riding, or simply enjoying the pool and its mountainous views are all part of the relaxation scene.

Among the vineyards, you will find the only museum dedicated exclusively to the work of the prestigious American artist, James Turrell.

At the museum, the light is enhanced by focusing on the interplay of space, light, and time.

Placed at 2,300 metres, the museum is a modern oasis, housing nine of Turrell’s important light works.

A late afternoon wander through the vineyard towards their daily tasting session sets you up nicely for what will be a delicious dinner. The baby lomo steak and the high-altitude Pinot Noir were very memorable.

Cardones National Park

This park takes its name from the cardón (candelabra cactus), the dominant plant species here. In the treeless Andean foothills and puna, the cardón has long been a vital source of timber for rafters, doors, and windows in traditional buildings.

The most picturesque area is the Valle Encantado. It’s high desert country with velvet-coated hills, rounded peaks, and towering cacti standing proud at elevations above 3,000 metres.

Molinos

Molinos is just down the road from Estancia Colome – and is a true sleepy backwater with a number of striking colonial buildings and beautiful adobe houses surrounded by willowy mesquite trees that huddle on the windswept hills.

Molinos, which takes its name from a nearby working mill, is even more chilled than nearby Cachi!

We had a beautifully peaceful lunch under a huge shady tree in the centre cobblestone area of the charming Hacienda de Molinos, which is a good accommodation option if Estancia Colome is uncomfortable budget-wise.

Cachi / La Merced Del Alto

Cachi is a truly enchanting adobe town, backed by snowcapped Andean peaks and fringed with high-altitude vineyards that produce world-class wine. Fresh highland air, sunny days and crisp nights are the order of the day!

The cobblestones, adobe architecture and tranquil plaza all add up to a serenity that is hard to ignore if you only have one night to stay here.

However, the hotel did not quite live up to the town of Cachi. The pool was cold and dirty; staff were hard to come by, and my bathroom reminded me of my school days!!

The setting of the hotel was utterly magnificent, especially at breakfast, so much was forgiven as we exited the property for Finca Valentina outside Salta — as to cross the Andes we needed to head north!

Finca Valentina

Heading north again, we arrived after yet another stunning drive, passing a famous place where downhill cyclists gather called Piedra del Molinos at 3,457 metres for their breathtaking descent with humongous S bends, condors flying above to the valley below, stopping off at a cheese and llama salami coffee shop for refreshments!

This charming ranch is owned by Fabrizio and his wife, who are also the owners of Socompa, our trusted and valued travel partners in the area. It is situated 6 kms beyond Salta’s airport and a 20-minute drive from the town centre.

That afternoon we headed into Salta to inspect Legado Mítico, a stunning small colonial-style hotel whose namesake we had stayed at in Buenos Aires. This is another good option if you fancy a spot of Salta nightlife rather than the peace of an out-of-town ranch.

That evening we dined, swapping high-altitude stories with Fabrizio, his business partner Mariana, and trip planner Vero from Socompa. A splendid evening, washed down with a suitable quantity of Torrontés!

Quebrada De Humahuaca – Purmamarca – Tilcara – Humahuaca – Uquía

Today we left Salta heading north to San Salvador de Jujuy and onwards through the Humahuaca Gorge via Volcán and Purmamarca, viewing the aptly named Hill of Seven Colours as we sped along one of the most breathtakingly stunning roads I have ever witnessed!

In Purmamarca we visited a charming hotel that is on our “to stay” list called Manantial del Silencio, which certainly ticked most of the boxes, though Purmamarca was not our most favourite town in the northwest – a new build trying to look old, with a lot of tourist shops.

For a long time, the road followed a famous train line, which is currently being renovated, called Tren a los Nubes. Now completed, it is well worth considering if you are a lover of high-altitude ancient steam ironmongery!
Onwards past Tilcara and into the charming town of Uquía, famous for its 17th-century church whose interior famously features paintings of angels packing muzzle-loading weaponry!! If you have the time, stop for lunch at Cerro La Señorita – Olga is a great chef!

But we were on a mission, so off through the town of Humahuaca, and 25 kms east one arrives at the Serranía de Hornocal, a jagged row of rock “teeth” offering utterly spectacular colours best viewed late afternoon from a 4,350-metre viewpoint – just AMAZING!!

Tilcara – Las Marias Hotem – La Nueva Progresso Restaurant

This town I really liked – it has an excellent selection of small hotels, stunning landscapes, excursions, and the cactus-studded ruins of an indigenous fortress.

Las Marias is a comfortable, well-priced hotel ideal for a one-night stop. El Nuevo Progresso is an engaging, artsy-ambience restaurant with delicious tourist-oriented cuisine, especially their imaginatively prepared llama dishes.

Tilcara (2,500 metres) – Purmamarca – Lipan Slope (4,170 metres) – Salinas Grandes (3,350 metres) – Susques – Paso De Jama (4,230 metres) – Chile Border – San Pedro De Atacama

Today’s road trip to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile from Tilcara in NW Argentina has to be one of the finest drives anyone can make in their lives.

Leaving Tilcara, you head through Aguas Calientes, and the first major point of interest at 3,350 metres is the 525-sq-km crust of salt known as Salinas Grandes.

Though we only dropped by for a coffee and look-see, many of our travellers stay at Pristine Camps here, which comprises a number of domes, a restaurant, and a bar in the most outrageous setting you can ever imagine.

Next stop before the border was the quaint village of Susques, made famous by an ancient church that is a must-see.

Onwards to the huge sandstone rock towers at Monjes de la Pacana before reaching the highest elevation point of today’s journey – 4,831 metres.

A brief stop at 4,000 metres to view the Salar de Pujsa salt lake, with its Andean flamingos, migratory birds such as sandpipers, and the ever-present vicuñas on the far shore.

It’s 160 kms from the Argentine/Chile border to San Pedro de Atacama, and the excitement when you arrive at the stunningly refurbished Tierra Atacama hotel and have your first dip in their beautiful pool to stretch one’s aching limbs is right up there!!

Arriving at Tierra Atacama after crossing the Andes from Argentina is one of life’s phenomenal experiences! The hotel has recently undergone a massive refurbishment, adding even more superlative to this already stunningly situated hotel.

Unquestionably, the best views of any hotel in San Pedro de Atacama are to be found here at Tierra Atacama.

The view from the pool and sundowner decks is simply out of this world.
A MUST stay in my book.

This route has it all!! Leaving Tierra Atacama after 3 days of utterly outrageously scenic adventures, you reach the Bolivian border within the hour.

Meet your new driver and guide, and then it’s full-on scenic drama to the great salt lake – words are simply no good at describing how stunning this section of the trip becomes as it reveals more and more drama around every corner.

Reaching your airstream encampment as the sun sets over the Salar de Uyuni is another priceless experience, but waking up on the salt is even more bizarre – as witnessed by my pictures above.

On the way across the Salar de Uyuni to Luna Salada – shops, massive cacti, and an orange mountain, not to mention the endless kms of salt!!
A brief overnight stay at Luna Salada near Uyuni and a pit stop visit to the old train yard from Butch Cassidy days before flying onto La Paz.

La Paz

Perched dramatically at over 3,600 metres, La Paz is a city like no other—tumbling down steep canyons and flanked by snow-dusted peaks. It’s chaotic and charismatic, with a pulse that’s both dizzying and magnetic. The city’s soul is best experienced riding the Mi Teleférico cable car system, offering bird’s-eye views of tin-roofed neighbourhoods clinging to cliffs and the mighty Illimani mountain looming in the distance. Down below, colonial streets, kaleidoscopic markets, and a powerful sense of indigenous identity intertwine in a vibrant, high-altitude harmony.

Hotel Atix with its 270 degree views of La Paz is well worth a few nights especially spending a sun set moment in their elevated bar with its wrap around windows!

Camino de la Muerte – we left La Paz for a few hours to view the beginning of the infamous DEATH ROAD – I hasten to admit that after a km or so enough was enough and we returned to normality!!

Up Periscope

Casa Oiá

Tucked away at the edge of the Lençóis Maranhenses National Park in Santo Amaro do Maranhão, Casa Oiá is a serene retreat where nature, design, and simplicity converge. This boutique farmhouse offers a tranquil escape amidst the vast dunes and crystal-clear lagoons of one of Brazil’s most stunning landscapes.

The property features a main house and two bungalows, accommodating up to 23 guests in 8 rooms. Each suite is thoughtfully designed with local materials, air conditioning, and handcrafted details that reflect the region’s rich cultural heritage. Common areas include a shared kitchen, lounge, and a shaded terrace that invites relaxation and connection with fellow travellers.

Casa Oiá emphasizes a harmonious blend of rustic charm and contemporary comfort. The minimalist architecture, curated by Brazilian designer Marina Linhares, complements the natural surroundings, creating a space that is both elegant and unpretentious.

Guests can immerse themselves in the unique environment of the Lençóis Maranhenses through guided treks, lagoon swims, and stargazing sessions. The property’s commitment to sustainability and community engagement ensures an experience that is both enriching and responsible.

Whether you’re seeking adventure or tranquility, Casa Oiá offers an unparalleled opportunity to connect with the breathtaking beauty of northeastern Brazil.