Because I’ve always wanted to…

Spring Greetings to you all,

Last October, Maza embarked on a research recce trip to Northern Tanzania, venturing into some of the most sought-after safari destinations in the world.

From the vast elephant herds of Tarangire, Lake Manyara, to the infamous Ngorongoro Crater, and the Western, Central, and Northern Serengeti, this trip coincided with the very tail end of the Great Migration, so we have included exclusive images of wildebeest crossing the Mara River.
Enjoy,

Laterally yours, Nick, Helen, Jess and Maza

A Luxurious Journey Through the Northern Circuit

Touching down in Tanzania, I found myself in Arusha, the beating heart of the Northern Circuit. A city framed by rolling hills and the towering presence of Mount Meru, it serves as the perfect threshold between the modern world and the untamed wilderness beyond. With a long journey behind me and an even greater adventure ahead, choosing the right place to rest was essential.

For those who appreciate a slower, more immersive transition into safari life, Arusha Coffee Lodge provided just that. Set within a working coffee plantation, it offered a warm, unhurried welcome. The plantation-style cottages, surrounded by lush greenery, felt more like a private retreat than a hotel. A stroll through the coffee fields, the scent of roasted beans hanging in the air, and a fireside drink in the evening made it easy to unwind and settle into the rhythm of Tanzania.

For a more contemporary start, the Gran Meliá Arusha presented a different kind of luxury. Here, sleek interiors blended with African design, and the energy of the city hummed just beyond the manicured gardens. My room opened onto a private balcony with sweeping views of Mount Meru, and after a refreshing swim in the infinity pool and a visit to the spa, the weariness of travel quickly faded. It was a different way to begin the journey—one of indulgence and modern refinement.

Whichever setting you choose, Arusha is more than just a stopover. It is a quiet moment before the adventure unfolds, a place to absorb the anticipation of what’s to come. Whether savouring a freshly brewed cup of coffee among the trees or watching the sun set over the city skyline, the pulse of Tanzania is already tangible. The wild was waiting, just beyond the horizon.

Tarangire: Land of Giants

Often overshadowed by its more famous counterparts, Tarangire National Park is a hidden gem where vast elephant herds roam beneath ancient baobab trees, their towering forms casting shadows over golden savannahs. The Tarangire River, a vital water source, draws wildlife year-round, making this park one of the best places in Tanzania to observe elephants up close. Beyond the giants, Tarangire surprises with prowling lions, elusive leopards draped in tree branches, and cheetahs scanning the plains for prey. Seasonal migrations bring thousands of zebras, wildebeest, and buffalo, creating a spectacle of movement and survival.

Tarangire is also a paradise for bird lovers, boasting over 550 recorded species, including the striking martial eagle and vibrant, yellow-collared lovebirds. The park’s quieter atmosphere offers a more intimate safari experience, where the landscapes feel wild and untouched. As the sun dips behind the baobabs, painting the sky in hues of amber and violet, Tarangire reveals its magic—a place where nature’s rhythms play out undisturbed, inviting travellers to slow down and truly absorb Africa’s raw beauty.

Where to sleep? Tarangire Elephant Springs Camp

This newly built luxury camp, located within the park, offered an immersive experience that felt intimate and exclusive. Though still refining its service details, the camp’s promise shone through with spacious tents, beautiful surroundings, and unparalleled access to wildlife.

Expert Tip: For the best wildlife sightings, embark on an early morning game drive before the heat of the day sets in.

Tarangire is also a paradise for bird lovers, boasting over 550 recorded species, including the striking martial eagle and vibrant, yellow-collared lovebirds. The park’s quieter atmosphere offers a more intimate safari experience, where the landscapes feel wild and untouched. As the sun dips behind the baobabs, painting the sky in hues of amber and violet, Tarangire reveals its magic—a place where nature’s rhythms play out undisturbed, inviting travellers to slow down and truly absorb Africa’s raw beauty.

Lake Manyara: A Hidden Paradise

Framed by the dramatic Rift Valley escarpment and the shimmering waters of its namesake lake, Lake Manyara National Park is a place of striking contrasts. Within its compact boundaries, dense groundwater forests give way to open savannahs, flamingo-dotted shores, and the famous tree-climbing lions that make this park so unique. The combination of lush scenery and rich biodiversity offers a refreshing change from the vast, open plains of other northern parks.

My time here was spent between two very different accommodations, each offering a distinct way to experience the region. WAYO Manyara Green Camp, set along a secluded riverbank inside the park, provided a safari experience that felt raw and immersive. Nights were spent beneath a sky so clear the Milky Way seemed within reach, while days were punctuated by dining beside waterfalls, waking to the sounds of the river, and walking safaris that brought me closer to nature’s rhythm. This camp is perfect for those who embrace eco-conscious luxury and seek adventure with a light footprint.

For a completely different perspective, Gibb’s Farm, nestled in the lush hills of Karatu, offered a more refined retreat. As one of Tanzania’s most historic lodges, it seamlessly blended colonial charm with modern comfort, set within the tranquillity of a working coffee estate. Here, mornings began with the aroma of freshly ground coffee, and afternoons were best spent strolling through manicured gardens, indulging in farm-to-table dining, or unwinding with a spa treatment inspired by traditional African remedies. Gibb’s Farm is a sanctuary for those who prefer a slower, more indulgent pace, with an emphasis on culture, cuisine, and relaxation.

Both options reveal different sides of Lake Manyara’s magic—one wild and adventurous, the other serene and restorative. Whether you seek the intimacy of a remote riverside camp or the comfort of a historic retreat, this region delivers a safari experience unlike any other.

Ngorongoro Crater: Africa’s Natural Masterpiece

Often referred to as “Eden on Earth,” the Ngorongoro Crater is a breathtaking volcanic caldera that offers one of the most concentrated and diverse wildlife experiences on the planet. Formed millions of years ago, this UNESCO World Heritage Site spans approximately 260 square kilometres and descends 610 meters to a rich ecosystem teeming with life.

The name “Ngorongoro” is derived from the Maasai word for the sound produced by cowbells, reflecting the area’s deep-rooted pastoral heritage. Home to approximately 25,000 large animals, the Ngorongoro Crater boasts an impressive array of species. Notably, it shelters a significant population of the critically endangered black rhinoceros, offering one of the few places where these majestic creatures can be observed in their natural habitat. Predators such as lions, hyenas, and leopards thrive here, benefiting from the abundant prey. Bird enthusiasts can delight in over 500 species, including ostriches, flamingos, and the impressive kori bustard.

Accommodation Highlights

During my exploration of this natural wonder, I experienced two distinct accommodations, each offering unique perspectives of the crater:

Situated just minutes from the crater rim, Lemala Ngorongoro Tented Camp provides an intimate, classic safari experience. The camp’s proximity allows for early descent into the crater, often before the influx of other visitors. The tents exude rustic charm, featuring wood-burning stoves and bucket showers, reminiscent of traditional safari expeditions. Evenings are spent sharing stories around the campfire, enveloped by the sounds of the African night.

Perched on the northeastern rim, Crater’s Edge offers a luxurious retreat with unparalleled views into the caldera. The lodge seamlessly blends opulence with the raw beauty of the surroundings. Each spacious tented suite is thoughtfully designed with modern amenities, including a 360-degree gas fireplace, freestanding copper bathtub, and private viewing deck equipped with a telescope for stargazing. The lodge’s close proximity to the descent road ensures guests can embark on early morning game drives, maximizing wildlife viewing opportunities before the crater becomes busier. The on-site gourmet dining features locally inspired dishes, enhancing the overall experience.

Choosing Between the Two

• Lemala Ngorongoro Tented Camp: Ideal for travellers seeking an authentic, close-to-nature experience with the charm of traditional safari living. The emphasis is on immersion and intimacy, making it perfect for those who appreciate rustic elegance and the romance of classic tented camps.
• Crater’s Edge: Suited for guests desiring a more indulgent stay without compromising on the wilderness experience. The lodge offers top-tier luxury, modern conveniences, and breathtaking vistas, appealing to those who prefer a refined retreat after a day of exploration.

Wildlife Highlights

• Embarking on a dawn game drive revealed the crater’s dynamic ecosystem in its most active hours. I observed black rhinos grazing in the early morning mist, prides of lions lounging on sunlit grasslands, and elephants meandering near the Lerai Forest. The diverse habitats within the crater, from open savannahs to freshwater lakes, support a rich tapestry of life, making each safari excursion uniquely rewarding.

Insider Tip

To fully appreciate the Ngorongoro Crater’s splendour with minimal crowds, it’s advisable to start your descent before 6:15 AM. This early start not only enhances the serenity of the experience but also increases the chances of witnessing predators in action and other wildlife engaging in morning activities.

The Ngorongoro Crater stands as a testament to nature’s resilience and grandeur, offering an immersive journey into one of Africa’s most remarkable landscapes.

Serengeti: The Soul of Africa

Embarking from the Ngorongoro Crater to the Serengeti National Park is a journey that unveils the diverse tapestry of Tanzania’s landscapes. The overland route spans approximately 121 kilometres, translating to a drive of about 3 to 4 hours under normal conditions. As you ascend from the verdant, forested slopes of the crater, the terrain gradually transitions into the expansive, golden plains of the Serengeti. En route, the horizon stretches endlessly, dotted with acacia trees and the occasional silhouette of migrating wildlife. This drive not only offers a visual feast but also a tangible connection to the land, allowing travellers to witness the subtle shifts in ecosystems and the rich biodiversity that defines this region.

For those seeking a more expedited journey, an alternative is to return towards Lake Manyara and board a flight from the Lake Manyara Airstrip to various airstrips within the Serengeti, such as Seronera or Kogatende. This option significantly reduces travel time, offering aerial views of the Rift Valley and the Serengeti’s vastness, and is particularly advantageous for travellers aiming to maximize their time observing wildlife.

The Serengeti National Park, often hailed as the “Soul of Africa,” is a realm where nature’s grandeur unfolds across endless horizons. Its vast expanse encompasses diverse ecosystems, each offering unique wildlife experiences.

Central Serengeti: Big Cats and Year-Round Action

At the heart of the park, Central Serengeti (Seronera) is one of the most reliable places in Africa to see predators in action. The Seronera River provides a lifeline, drawing animals even in the driest months, which in turn keeps lions, cheetahs, and leopards on the hunt. Large prides of lions lounge on sun-warmed kopjes, while leopards drape themselves over the branches of acacia trees, their tails lazily flicking in the breeze.

Located in a prime wildlife area, Nimali Central Serengeti blended elegant comfort with the raw beauty of the savannah. The spacious, beautifully designed tents felt more like boutique suites, each with a private veranda offering uninterrupted views of the plains. The camp’s intimate setting allowed for a highly personal experience, whether it was gathering for sundowners around the fire or waking to the distant roars of lions. Its location was unbeatable, ensuring game drives began the moment we set out each morning.

One of the most unforgettable experiences here was a hot air balloon safari at dawn—floating silently above the endless plains as the rising sunbathed the land in gold, watching herds of wildebeest stretch to the horizon.

Just a short distance away, Siringit Serengeti Camp offered a different kind of luxury—one defined by understated elegance and seamless integration with the environment. The spacious, canvas tents blended safari authenticity with modern comfort, and the culinary experience was a highlight, featuring menus designed by a Michelin-starred chef.

Mornings here began with coffee on the private veranda, watching zebras graze in the distance, and evenings were spent savouring exquisitely prepared meals under the stars. The atmosphere was refined yet unpretentious, making it the perfect choice for those who appreciate an elevated safari experience without sacrificing a sense of adventure.

Western Serengeti: The Drama of the Grumeti River

As the Grumeti River snakes through the Western Corridor, it becomes the stage for one of the most heart-pounding events of the Great Migration—river crossings between May and July. Unlike the chaotic crossings of the Mara River, Grumeti’s crossings tend to be more intimate, offering exceptional wildlife photography opportunities.

For those who want to be at the heart of the action, Wilderness Usawa Serengeti is a mobile camp that follows the movements of the Great Migration, ensuring guests are always in the right place at the right time. With only a handful of luxurious en-suite safari tents, the camp offered an exclusive, immersive experience where the Serengeti felt like it belonged entirely to us.

Evenings here were unforgettable—bush dinners under lantern-lit acacia trees, the distant calls of hyenas, and the thrill of knowing that by morning, the landscape would have transformed as thousands of wildebeest continued their journey.

Northern Serengeti: The Mara River Crossings

From July to September, Northern Serengeti is the scene of the Mara River crossings, where herds of wildebeest plunge into crocodile-infested waters in their relentless quest for greener pastures. The undulating hills and sparser visitor numbers give this area a more secluded, unspoiled feel compared to the bustling central plains.

Perched in the rolling Kogatende landscape, Aurari Camp exuded warmth, comfort, and exclusivity. Its owner, Vivian, was the heart of the experience, making sure every guest felt at home. She joined us for sundowners overlooking the plains and later for a memorable dinner under the stars, sharing stories about the Serengeti and its rhythms. Her presence added an incredibly personal touch to the stay, transforming it from simply a luxurious camp into an experience deeply connected to the land and the people who know it best.

The tented suites were beautifully appointed, balancing natural materials with modern touches. The private verandas overlooked endless stretches of wilderness, where at any moment, a herd of elephants or a lone lion could appear. The camp’s proximity to the Mara River ensured that within minutes of leaving camp, we found ourselves at one of the most spectacular wildlife events on earth.

Planning Your Serengeti Experience

The Serengeti is a year-round safari destination, but each region shines in different seasons:

• Central Serengeti (Seronera) – June to October: Best for big cat sightings and classic game drives, with wildlife thriving along the Seronera River.
• Western Serengeti (Grumeti) – May to July: A front-row seat to the Grumeti River crossings of the Great Migration.
• Northern Serengeti (Mara River) – July to September: The dramatic Mara River crossings, where thousands of wildebeest battle the currents and predators lurking nearby.
• Eastern Serengeti – November to May: A quieter, more exclusive safari experience with stunning open plains, ideal for cheetah sightings. This area is particularly rewarding from December to March, when the southern plains near Ndutu become the stage for the calving season, attracting thousands of newborn wildebeest—and with them, an abundance of predators.

Whether it was watching lions hunt in Seronera, dining under the stars in the Western Corridor, or standing on the banks of the Mara River as the migration unfolded before my eyes, the Serengeti delivered an experience that felt almost surreal in its beauty and scale.

For anyone seeking the raw essence of Africa, the Serengeti is unmatched. It is a place where the wilderness moves to its own ancient rhythm, and where, no matter how many times you visit, the magic never fades.

Final Reflections

From the elephant-studded landscapes of Tarangire to the vast, untouched splendour of the Serengeti, Tanzania’s Northern Circuit is a journey into Africa’s wild heart. It is a place where nature reigns supreme—where lions stalk across golden plains, wildebeest move in endless procession, and the dawn chorus of the bush becomes the soundtrack of adventure.

Top Recommendations

• For Ultimate Luxury: Nimali Central Serengeti – Exceptional service, breathtaking locations, and seamless safari experiences.
• For the Adventurous at Heart: WAYO Manyara Green Camp – Immersive, authentic stays that bring you closer to the wild.
• Must-Do Experience: A hot air balloon safari over the Serengeti—watching the plains come alive from above is an experience beyond words.

Laterally yours,

Maza

Up Periscope

Antarctica21: The White Continent in Unparalleled Comfort

For those who believe that adventure and luxury should go hand in hand, Antarctica21 offers a revolutionary way to explore the White Continent—without enduring the long and often turbulent sea crossings of traditional Antarctic expeditions. Instead, guests take a two-hour flight from Punta Arenas, Chile, soaring over the infamous Drake Passage and landing directly in Antarctica, where their boutique expedition vessel awaits.

This fly-and-cruise model allows travellers to step onto the seventh continent in comfort, maximizing time spent amid the glaciers, icebergs, and extraordinary wildlife of the Antarctic Peninsula. Zodiac excursions bring guests face to face with humpback whales, leopard seals, and colonies of curious penguins, while guided hikes offer breathtaking views of the frozen wilderness. For the more adventurous, activities like sea kayaking and snowshoeing provide an intimate connection with this pristine environment.

Onboard, Antarctica21’s small expedition ships offer an intimate experience with just 67 guests per voyage, ensuring personal attention and a true sense of exploration. Stylishly designed cabins with panoramic windows, world-class dining, and an expert team of naturalist guides, historians, and polar specialists create an experience that is as enriching as it is exhilarating.

But what truly sets Antarctica21 apart is the feeling of exclusivity—a private gateway to the planet’s most remote frontier. Whether standing on the deck watching icebergs drift past or walking among thousands of penguins on a snow-covered shore, this is not just a journey; it is a once-in-a-lifetime immersion into the last great wilderness on Earth.