Because I’ve always wanted to…

Spring Greetings,

For many years, going to see the gorillas in Uganda had been high on my “to do” list, but my mobility issues had prevented this adventure from becoming a reality. Then, the owners of Wild Places informed me that this was simply a poor excuse – they said, “we have sedan chairs for those who prefer not to walk!”

So, the adventure became a reality, and last year I flew to Entebbe and onwards around Uganda. I was lucky enough to visit the highlight areas of this incredible African country, which is unlike any other I have ever visited. You can see my trip here and, below, I’ve shared some of the best bits from my once-in-a-lifetime trip.

With all our best wishes,

Laterally yours, Nick, Helen, Jess and Maza

Hotel No. 5, Entebbe

Hotel No. 5 is an easy 10-minute drive from Entebbe airport. It offers friendly service, comfortable rooms, an excellent bar and restaurant, and a good-sized pool—perfect for working off those long-haul creaky bones.

My first adventure on this trip was to the famous Murchison Falls. While they are not on the scale of Iguazu or Victoria Falls, they are still remarkable. A boat trip to the lower falls and then a short hike to the top reveals all, as you can see from these pictures.

Papa’s Camp – Nile River

Papa’s Camp is reached by a flight to Pakuba airstrip, followed by a two-hour safari drive to a part of the park that is totally wild and almost unexplored. You will not see any other safari vehicles here, as this camp is set in a privately zoned area, right on the Nile. The six-tented exclusive bush camp offers all the comforts you could wish for.

Never have I slept so close to the roaring sound of a river or a pod of snorting hippos! Apart from superb game sightings, the chances of catching a huge Nile perch here are excellent.

Semliki Safari Lodge

Next stop was Semliki Wildlife Reserve. The flight down from Pakuba airstrip to Semliki was scenic beyond belief, as we flew alongside the Rwenzori mountain range and Lake Albert. The park, situated within the Albertine Rift Valley, is superb for bird watching.

Semliki Lodge is the only lodge in the Reserve, housing 50 animal species including forest elephants, giant forest hogs, chimpanzees, and at night, serval cats, nightjars, and mongooses. My highlight here, however, was a boat trip on Lake Albert to view the amazing shoebill storks.

Lake Albert

Honey Bear Bush Camp

A three-hour car ride through the highland area of Uganda, passing tea estates, brings you to a short boat ride before arriving at my favourite camp. Honey Bear Bush Camp is set upon the shore of the Kazinga Channel.

Kyambura Game Reserve in Queen Elizabeth National Park is located in a low-lying zone of the park’s crater lakes, home to hippos, elephants, fantastic birds, many antelope species, lions, leopards, hyenas, and chimpanzee tracking in the gorge—all on your daily safari menu. I particularly enjoyed sailing on a dhow that was towed from Lamu Island in Kenya, not to mention two breathtaking sundowner spots.

Sundowner at Honey Bear Bush Camp – Off the Kazinga Channel

Chimpanzees of Kyambura Gorge – Off Queen Elizabeth Park

Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge

Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge is definitely the place to stay. With soaring ceilings, massive exposed wooden beams, big picture windows, and roaring fires at night, it offers endless views of treetops, volcanoes, and mountains.

The highlight of anyone’s trip to Uganda is tracking the mountain gorillas. Unless you are lucky enough—as I was—to have a rotation of strong men to carry you, the walking can be tough and long. However, when you catch a glimpse of the magnificent silverback, any discomforts will soon be forgotten. When sighted, one is guided to within six metres of the gorillas, sitting around them in awe, gazing into their big round eyes for an hour.”

Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park

Nestled in the southwest of Uganda, on the edge of the Western Rift Valley, lies 331km² of mountain rainforest. This is the only forest in Africa where gorillas and chimps coexist. The world population of mountain gorillas is estimated at 880, half of which live in Bwindi alongside 350-400 chimps.

Apoka Safari Lodge

• Apoka Safari Lodge is a luxurious and eco-friendly lodge boasting what must be one of the best views in Africa, overlooking the busy savannah and surrounding mountains. The 10 spacious rooms all feature private verandas that offer the perfect spot to get sucked into the politics of buffalo or waterbuck herds, usually unfolding within arm’s reach of the lounge chairs.Guests can take guided safari walks and drives, hike to the summit of Mount Morungole, and learn about the local culture of the Karamojong people.

Up Periscope

The Last House, Mawella Beach, Tangalle

I spent a glorious few hours last January with the owner of the Last House, Tim Jacobson, having lunch at this charming remote beach hotel. This was Geoffrey Bawa’s last private commission and stands testament to his most iconic designs—windows that frame views of the ocean and garden, wide sweeping verandahs, and open-air living areas designed to catch the breeze.

Each of the rooms can be booked independently. Mawella Beach is one of the most unspoiled in Sri Lanka, yet only a few hours away from the bustling areas of Mirissa, Thalpe, and Galle, thanks to the new highway.